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Christmas away from home

hanoi2Christmas is family affair and for Christians, whatever the nationality, we take that to heart.

But on two Christmases in the past, I found myself away from the Philippines, both in colder environments.

My first Christmas outside of the Philippines was in Hanoi, in 1984. In 1991, it was in Versailles, France,

At the end of the conference I and three other Filipinos who attended a conference in Ho Chi Minh (formerly Saigon) in the third week of December 1984, were asked if we wanted to go to Hanoi.

My other companions, from the academe and labor unions, declined the invitation, as they didn’t want to spend Christmas away from home. It’s seldom that one gets an invitation to communist Hanoi so I readily said “Yes.”


It was only nine years after the end of the Vietnam war. Vietnam was heavily under the influence of the Union of Soviet Socialist Republics, which as the name conveyed, it had not yet disintegrated. Mikhail Gorbachev and his perestroika which inspired Vietnam’s Doi Moi (renovation) were not in anybody’s imagination yet.

Early the next day, I was put in a military plane which was carrying a high-ranking military official to Hanoi.

The moment I landed in Hanoi, I felt the huge difference between South and North Vietnam: the weather. Ho Chi Minh City, the capital of South Vietnam, is a tropical city just like Manila. The temperature hovers around 70 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Hanoi is cold, just like a European village. Temperature in Hanoi in December is down to 50 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit.

Since the Hanoi trip was not planned, I was not dressed for it. At the airport, I already developed allergies. The guide assigned to me noticed it so the moment we got to the hotel, she requested for warm clothes and overcoat for me. That was communist efficiency at work.

I stayed at Thang Loi hotel, built by the Cubans. It was a lovely, sprawling hotel, a huge part of it built on stilts over Ho Tay (West Lake). Through the gaps of the wood floor slabs, I could see fish on the lake underneath. From my room, I had to cross a wooden bridge to the dining room where the foreigners I saw were Russians and Cubans.

Thang Loi was a charming hotel. The signs were in French and Vietnamese. The curtains had flower designs and the bedding had lace ruffles.

While my colleagues in Manila were busy with their last minute Christmas shopping, I was peering at the waxed remains of Ho Chi Minh, the inspiration and founder of Vietnam’s liberation movement, and looking at the craters caused by American bombs.

Christmas eve was so serene with only the swishing sound of the water underneath. Then came from somewhere the soft, angelic sound of “Silent Night, Holy Night”. It was beautiful.

Upon my request, my host arranged my visit with the Philippine embassy. The ambassador then was a kindly, retired military officer Juan Cruz. (The Philippine government then a misguided war-mentality when it came to Vietnam so for many years it was sending retired military officers as ambassadors.) The number two guy in the embassy was a very competent career officer, Ernesto Castro. (Ernie died a few years ago in a freak accident. He was electrocuted while taking a shower in his home in Ilocos.)

At that time, Hanoi was not a favorite destination of Filipinos so Ambassador Cruz and the very small Filipino community were glad to have me as visitor for their Christmas feast. I remember we had lechon and arroz valenciana.

When I went back to Hanoi in 1990 to cover the visit of then Foreign Secretary Raul Manglapus, I made it a point to drop by Thang Loi, They had the same menu in French and Vietnamese but it had lost a lot of its charm. It looked rundown.

I made two more visits to Vietnam, which had overtaken the Philippines in economic growth, after that but never again in Christmas.

Christmas in Versailles was part of my holiday in France in 1991. Needless to say, I was freezing.With my friend, who hosted me for the visit, we toured the magnificent Château de Versailles, located some 20 kilometers southwest of Paris. The seat of power of ancient France in the 17th century, half a day was not enough to absorb the grandeur of Versailles. The Hall of Mirrors was truly splendid.
hall-of-mirrors-versailles
We had dinner in the place of the French-Peruvian friend of my friend. We attended midnight mass in a quaint church in Versailles. I forgot the name of the old church but it’s not the grand chapel in the Chateau. I think it was a chapel of the community that served the Chateau’s royal residents.

This year, I am away from the Philippines but it will be a family affair with my brother’s family in Southern California.

It’s again going to be a very cold Christmas. But there’s enough love in our hearts to keep it warm and memorable.

Merry Christmas!

Photo credits:
1. Hanoi photo from www.studentsoftheworld
2. Versailles photo from www.visitingdc.com

Published inMalayaTravel

26 Comments

  1. Have fun Ellen! Merry Christmas!

  2. rose rose

    Till when will you be in LA? Love to you all for Christmas! Are you taking Northwest? If so pass by New Jersey and join us for the rest of the holidays..for more family get togethers…cousins who grew up in Cagayan de Oro are spending the holidays here in the East Coast..so you can meet the other Ellen who now lives in Mexico City..

  3. florry florry

    Wherever we are, lets enjoy the spirit of Christmas.

    A Merry Christmas to one and all!

  4. See if you can guess these Christmas Carols!

    1. Bleached Yule
    2. Castaneous-colored Seed Vesicated in a Conflagration
    3. Singular Yearning for the Twin Anterior Incisors
    4. Righteous Darkness
    5. Arrival Time2400 hrs – WeatherCloudless
    6. Loyal Followers Advance
    7. Far Off in a Feeder
    8. Array the Corridor
    9. Bantam Male Percussionist
    10. Monarchial Triad
    11. Nocturnal Noiselessness
    12. Jehovah Deactivate Blithe Chevaliers
    13. Red Man En Route to Borough
    14. Frozen Precipitation Commence
    15. Proceed and Enlighten on the Pinnacle
    16. The Quadruped with the Vermillion Probiscis
    17. Query Regarding Identity of Descendant
    18. Delight for this Planet
    19. Give Attention to the Melodious Celestial Beings
    20. The Dozen Festive 24 Hour Intervals

  5. As the year ends and we approach the season of Christ masses and Christ birthday, the mantra — “what would Jesus do?” becomes worth remembering.

    As we gather around each other — with family and friends — we look at them with affection : “What would Jesus do?”

    During these last days of the yearsIt is well not to think of the ones whose positions are so against ours, the politicians or those banal or worse who make our blood boil. When we get forced to because someone else is impolitic to have raised the specter of Maguindanao massacre or Pilipinas politics — we have a problem. Do we, or do we not think — “What would Jesus do?”

  6. rose rose

    A Holy Christmas and a Blessed Prosperous New Year to
    All!
    ang dasal ko kay Bro: Isaang himala at milagro na magbabago na ang patakaran ng gobierno ni Arroyo..truth and justice will rule in the trials of the Ampatuans; at huwag sana bumutok ang Mayon Volcano..sana magbago na si Gloria at tunay na gloria ang ipabutok niya sa bansa…

  7. Merry Christmas Ellen, and Ellenville too. The Pinoy celebration of this endearing tradition is so deep seated that a missed one is not easily forgotten (although some Americans are trying to impeach Santa and abolish X’mas, horror of horrors). Year after year, it arrives on time, impervious to the influence of Filipino Time, and now a bit of help from Congress. According to a news report, http://www.mb.com.ph/articles/234943/house-approves-bill-seeking-standard-time-entire-rp, a congressman is proposing the riddance of Filipino Time, and may end up being jeered as a spoil sport.

  8. saxnviolins saxnviolins

    joeseg:

    1. White Christmas
    2. Chestnuts Roasting on an Open Fire
    3. All I Want for Christmas Are My Two Front Teeth
    4. O Holy Night
    5. It Came Upon a Midnight Clear
    6. O Come All Ye Faithful
    7. Away in a Manger
    8. Deck the Halls (with balls of Dolphy fala lalala)
    9. Little Drummer Boy
    10. We Three Kings
    11. Silent Night
    12. God Rest Ye Merry Gentlemen
    13. Santa Claus is Coming to Town
    14. Let It Snow
    15. Go Tell It On The Mountain
    16. Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer
    17. What Child is This
    18. Joy to the World
    19. Angels We Have Heard on High
    20. Twelve Days of Christmas

  9. The two countries, Vietnam and France you mentioned you visited have significantly many things in common. France colonized Vietnam. But before that, Vietnam was already a nation. That is why France could not have been considered by Vietnam a mother country. Even then, Vietnam is a full member of La Francophonie, an association of countries with colonial relationship with France. The two countries have also a fierce history of resistance against the americans. The french, to a lesser extent by having asserted strongly but in the political and diplomatic area, their sovereignty of their nation over americans. The vietnamese, for their part, asserted their sovereignty by physically driving away the american invaders from their nation. Vietnam has yet to settle the human rights issue by allowing more freedom of press to allow every human beings, local or international, access to information on how they treat the lives of people inside their country. But these two countries, known for their strong nationalism have a globally respectable economy. Such performance are things which we filipinos, though in paper already independent from, as granted by, the americans, are still worshipping dependents of the americans resulting to the perpetual mendicancy status of our military, economy and culture, and the corrupted foreign colaborationist political system.

    Nevertheless, I wish you a safe and fruitfull trip, and a Merry Christmas, Ellen!

  10. I forgot to include: Such performance are things which we filipinos are still dreaming of today even though in paper we are already independent from…foreign colaborationist political system.

  11. mario mario

    GMA said the reason why she rushed back home from Copenhagen was due to the Mayon Volcano eruption. But after staying in Manila for a few days, she left for Hongkong for a vacation. Another lie !

  12. saxnviolins

    You got it all right on the name that Christmas carols!

    Naging katawatawa na naman si Remonde is announcing na kaya nagmamadaling bumalik si GMA from Copenhagen para daw maasikaso ang needed relief sa Mayon Volcano eruption. Eh sinabi na ngang it will forthcoming in a few days pa. Boladas na naman ng mga hudas na hindi na kinakagat ng public.

  13. mukhang may rason naman — The Top Leaders of our Government should be the first to demonstrate their love for Pilipinas, kaya dapat, Pilipinas Congress should pass a law that Pilipinas president and vice-president (also chief justice supreme court, speaker of house, Senate President) can only go abroad on official travel.

  14. rose rose

    Magbbigay daw ng christmas message si putot but will she say it herself or babasin ni Ermita or ni Remonde..out na si Lore-lie at baka madulas ang dila at magsabi ng totoo..dapat mabigyan si putot ng truth serum..

  15. Have a wonderful Christmas wherever you are Tita Ellen!

    One day, I will visit Vietnam. I’ve seen so many beautiful pictures of the country and Saigon from a very close friend, a Vietnamese, who has a very heart-wrenching story, that even includes Bataan but is now very successful here in the US.

  16. to ellen: If you are spending enough days in LA, I hope you get the e opportunity to see NBA Basketball. Los Angeles Lakers — great basketball!!!

    I’ve see your interest in the failure-called-Tiger Woods.
    Tiger can learn from Kobe. Kobe’s disaster was even worse — not just philandering (Tiger Woods) but accused-of-rape (Kobe).

    Already Tiger has failed the first step that Kobe did during his days of infamy. Tiger goes “on sabbatical” while Kobe put shoulders to task. Kobe did not hide from the public. Kobe went to work. The evening after a court-appearance relating to the rape-charge, Kobe was on the basketball court putting up points and showing focus and determination to be great.

    It may not be true for Pilipinas, but it is true for USA. As it is for Kobe, so it will be for Tiger. Tiger Woods’ rise from his days of debacle will not be determined by the stability of his marriage (that is his private problem) but by the excellence that he brings to the game of golf.

  17. saxnviolins saxnviolins

    Saan ang stopover?

    Duda ko baka may nilabhan na naman. Yan lang, sa tingin ko, ang dahilan ng mga biyahe.

    Bakasyon sa Hongkong? Parking funds again?

  18. saxnviolins saxnviolins

    Napapag-usapan yang paglalaba. Here is an excerpt from:

    Family of Secrets: The Bush Dynasty, the Powerful Forces That Put It in the White House, and What Their Influence Means for America (ISBN-10: 1596915579)

    In the Postwar Period, and especially the 1950s and 60s, the United States was desperate for allies in East Asia. The deal, at least as US officials saw it, was that Marcos would hold the fort against Communist incursions in the region as well as allow the continued operation of giant US military bases, notably Clark Air Force Base and Subic Bay Naval Station, that would serve specific cold war strategic objectives.

    In return, he would receive protection from the US embassy and intelligence operations emanating from it, as well as from prominent local Americans acting as surrogates.

    As part of the deal, Marcos would play a role in the international money machine through which vast undocumented sums sloshed, ostensibly to pay for covert operations. Implicit in this was a wink when he looted his own country – and maybe even an assist. Whether the wealth he amassed included the Yamashita gold is uncertain. After his death, his wife, Imelda would claim that Marcos had indeed found some of the stash – which [xxx (two words) sorry my photocopy is garbled here] was justification for the couple’s ability to amass such a fortune. But even without the Japanese treasure, the Philippines certainly had a domestic supply – which had been mined steadily, including during the war years, when the Japanese occupiers oversaw continued production.

    In 1978, Marcos issued a decree mandating that all gold mined in the island had to be sold directly to the government. As the Seagraves noted, this made it possible for him to sell some of his own gold to the Central Bank through a variety of intermediaries, and the bank could then send the gold to financial centers without attracting attention. In effect, Marcos seems to have turned the Philippine government into a laundry for his own stash. From there, according to this analysis, the gold, its origins obscured, made its way into bank vaults abroad and into international markets.

  19. saxnviolins saxnviolins

    Here’s more:

    Ed Rollins, the manager of the Reagan-Bush reelection campaign, admitted that a top Filipino politician illegally delivered ten million dollars in cash from Marcos to Reagan’s 1984 campaign, though he declined to name him.

  20. Oblak Oblak

    Kahit nasaan ka man, Ms. Ellen, maligayang Pasko.

  21. mario mario

    Sabi ni GMA nasa Hongkong sila ng buong pamilya para magbakasyon pero ang nakita lang doon ang mga anak niya at apo. Nasaan ba talaga siya? Baka naman sumimple na naman sa China para pumirma ng mga midnight deals.

  22. GMA nasa Legazpi sa mga evacuees dahil nga sa Mayon Volcano.

  23. rose rose

    Nasaan si Papa Pig..mukhang no hear no see siya lately and no say din…ano ang nangyayari sa kanya? Sa Hongkong si putot..pero wala si taba..hindi kaya sa Victoria Peak?

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